Før no!!
Verdens skjønnaste omslagskjole, -enkel og praktisk å hive rundt dei små som litt varme over undertøyet når en er inne o.l.
Og det beste av alt, -eg har fått lov å dele oppskifta :) :)
Det er Melissa bak bloggen Tiny Happy som har laga den, stikk gjerne innom og sjå alt det ho styrler på med :)
Oppskrifta er på engelsk, garnstudio har en grei oversettelsesoversikt for de som ønsker det, -og er det mange nok som ønsker det kunne det jo hende eg rett og slett skulle ta meg tida å oversette den sjøl...
Men har litt lite tid for tida, så då må det riktignok være endel :)
Ho meiner det er etpar feil her som ho har blitt gjort oppmerksom på tidligare, men at det skulle være slik at en likevel skulle kunne komme seg igjennom den.
Eg skal i allefall strikke den, en gang eg har tid...!
Her er det anbefalt pinne 4, så alt fra merino ekstra fine til dobbel tråd tynt ullgarn/alpakka skulle jo kunne gå fint.
Str er her gitt til opp til 9mnd, men ser jo ikkje nåke i veien for å øke litt på bredda i ryggen, str på armhulene og lengden for å få den litt større. Evt. strikke den i tjukkere garn på større pinne.
Pynt kan en jo velge alt mulig rart, for ikkje snakke om at man kan strikke inn mønster med f.eks rette og vrange masker. Vurderer sterkt å strikke ei blomsterbord eller hjertebord nederst m/ rett og vrang.....hmmm... :)
Blossom is a simple wrap-around dress with embroidery for a baby girl. It’s suitable for all seasons, depending on the type of yarn you choose. I made this dress in a locally-made silk blend just as all the spring blossoms were opening from their buds here in New Zealand; a pure-wool yarn would be cosy for winter babies though, with a warm bodysuit and tights, and I’m planning on making a cotton version for the summer. The dress is knitted all in one piece, reducing potential bulkiness over tiny baby shoulders, and the garter stitch edges create a nice, almost elasticated finish without having to pick up and knit any stitches afterwards!
Difficulty Level
Simple
Sizes
0-3 months, 3-6 months, 6-9 months.
Length 12 (13.5, 15)" / 30.5 (34, 38)cm
Chest 19.5 (20.5, 21.5)" / 50 (52, 54.5)cm -varies because of wrap-around style.
Materials
3 (4, 5) 50gm balls of Silkwood Fine Blend (60% kid mohair, 30% merino wool, 10% silk), color 218 mauve. This yarn is probably difficult to obtain outside New Zealand, however the Silkwood Yarns email address is silkwood@silkwoodltd.co.nz
See below for yarn substitutes.
US 6 / 4mm needles
US 4 / 3.5mm needlesstitch holder
wool needlepink and brown embroidery thread
embroidery needle
5/8 yd / 1/2m matching ribbon
Yarn substitutes
Debbie Bliss cotton cashmere or Rowan Wool Cotton would be suitable, but you could use any soft wool or cotton with which you can make the gauge measurements.
Gauge
24 sts and 29 rows = 14" / 10cm in stockinette with larger needles
Abbreviations
Kfb--knit into the front and back of next stitch; 1 st increased.
Skp--slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over; 1 st decreased.
Back
With smaller needles, cast on 60 (66, 72) sts. Work 4 rows garter stitch (knit every row). Change to larger needles and work 8 rows in stockinette, ending with a purl row.
Next row: K3, s1, k1, psso, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3. Continue in stockinette, decreasing as above on every 10th row until 52 (58, 64) sts remain.
Work even until work measures 7 (8.5, 10)" / 18 (21.5, 25.5)cm from cast on edge, ending with a purl row.
Decrease 4 sts in the next row as follows: K3, skp, k3, skp, k to the last 10 sts, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k3; 48 (54, 60) sts remain.
Work 15 rows even, ending with a purl row. Cast off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 42 (48, 54) sts remain.
Start armhole pattern:
Row 1: K.
Row 2: K4, p to last 4 sts, k4.
Continue in this manner until armhole measures 3.5 (5, 6.5)" / 9 (12.5, 16)cm, ending on a purl row.
Shape neck:
Row 1: K to end.
Row 2: K4, p4 (5, 7), k26 (30, 32), p4 (5, 7), k4.
Row 3: as row 1.
Row 4: as row 2.
Row 5: K12 (13, 15), cast off 18 (22, 24), k12 (13, 15).
Turn and work on first set of 12 (13, 15) sts. Use spare needle or stitch holder for the second set, or keep them at the end of working needle.Row 6: K4, p4 (5, 7), k4
Row 7: K5, k2tog, k5 (6, 8); 11 (12, 14) sts remain.
Row 8: K4, p to last 4 sts, k4
Row 9: K.
Repeat rows 8 and 9 seven times more.
Crossover front (left)
Row 1: K4, p to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 2: K1, kfb, k to end.
Row 3: K4, p to last 4 sts, k2, kfb, k1.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have 31 (36, 40) sts, ending on a purl row.
Knit 1 row.Cast on 3 sts at the beginning of the next row, for armhole shaping.
Next row: P to last 4 sts, k2, kfb, k1.
Continue increasing at front edge every row but without the garter stitch border at armhole edge, until you have 48 (54, 60) sts.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: K7, m1, k3, m1, k to last 8 sts, m1, k3, m1, k3; 52 (58, 64) sts.
Next row: P to last 4 sts, k4.
Next row: K to end.
Next row: P to last 4 sts, K4.
Repeat last two rows six times more.Work an increase row as follows: K7, m1, k to last 5 sts, m1, k to end; 54 (60, 66) sts.
Keeping the garter st border at front edge, continue in stockinette, increasing as above on every 10th row, until you have 60 (66, 72) sts.
Work eight rows without shaping.
Change to smaller needles and work 4 rows garter stitch. Cast off.
Crossover front (right)
End of back neck:
Rejoin yarn to second set of 12 (13, 15) sts.
Row 1: K4, p to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 2: K5, k2tog, k5 (6, 8); 11 (12, 14)sts.
Row 3: K4, p to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 4: K to end.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 seven times more. Complete as for left front, reversing shaping.
Crossover shaping:
Row 1: K4, p to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 2: K1, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.
Row 3: K2, kfb, p to last 4 sts, k4.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have 31 (36, 40) sts, ending on a purl row.Cast on 3 sts at the beginning of the next row, for armhole shaping. K to end of row.
Next row: K2, kfb, k1, p to end.
Continue increasing at front edge every row but without the garter stitch border at armhole edge, until you have 48 (54, 60) sts.
Purl 1 row.Next row: K7, m1, k3, m1, k to last 8 sts, m1, k3, m1, k3; 52 (58, 64) sts.
Next row: K4, p to end.
Next row: K to end.
Next row: K4, p to end.
Repeat last two rows six times more.Work an increase row as follows: K7, m1, k to last 5 sts, m1, k to end; 54 (60, 66) sts.
Keeping the garter st border at front edge, continue in stockinette, increasing as above on every 10th row, until you have 60 (66, 72) sts.
Work eight rows without shaping.
Change to smaller needles and work 4 rows garter stitch. Cast off.
Finishing
Weave in all ends. Block dress to measurements (this is quite important so that the dress sits nicely.) I used the overnight ‘spritzing’ method which worked well with the silk content in my yarn. Using mattress stitch, join side seams, leaving a small hole in the left side seam, below armhole, and directly opposite end of the crossover shaping. Cut ribbon in half and sew on each side of the dress where shaping ends. Work the embroidery on the left front. I worked four pink lazy-daisies, and some brown fern stitch, or work your own design. Thread the right-edge ribbon through the hole on the left of the dress and tie at the back.
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